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How to Care for Orchids: Blooms All Year

With the right light, water and fertiliser, your Phalaenopsis will reliably produce new blooms.
By the Westfalia editorial team · Updated on 16.09.2026
Created and reviewed by the Westfalia editorial team.

In brief: Orchids bloom for many months when given a bright, draught-free location, a loose bark-based potting mix and moderate watering. Only soak the pot when the roots are silvery and the potting mix is almost dry. Feed lightly during active growth and prune spent flower stems selectively.

Orchids do not need complicated care. The essentials are a bright spot without strong midday sun, an airy potting mix and watering at the right time. Phalaenopsis, also known as the moth orchid, forgives small care mistakes. Constant moisture, dark locations and too much fertiliser, however, quickly lead to root problems and a lack of flowers.

The following orchid care tips are aimed primarily at Phalaenopsis. Other types, such as Dendrobium, Cymbidium or Oncidium, may have different dormant periods and temperature requirements. So also check the plant label and inspect your orchid regularly.

Which location gives orchids strong leaves and flowers?

The right orchid location provides plenty of light, but no intense heat behind the glass. An east- or west-facing window suits most Phalaenopsis. There, the plant receives several hours of gentle morning or evening light. At a south-facing window, the leaves need protection from a curtain or semi-transparent sun screen between March and September.

Direct midday sun can cause pale, dry patches on the leaves. If your orchid is at a south-facing window, place it about 50 to 100 centimetres from the glass and check the leaves after a few days. Very dark green, soft leaves and long gaps between the leaves, on the other hand, usually indicate a lack of light.

Keep the daytime temperature between 18 and 24 degrees wherever possible. It may drop slightly at night, but should not remain below 16 degrees. Central heating dries out the plant, while cold draughts and major temperature fluctuations can cause buds to drop. So do not place the orchid directly above a radiator, beside an open balcony door or in front of an air-conditioning unit.

How do you recognise a good location?

The leaves show you whether the plant is in the right spot. Check the orchid once a week and respond to changes before the roots or buds are damaged.

  • Healthy leaves: They are firm, feel smooth and have a medium-green colour.
  • Too little light: The leaves grow dark green and thin, with long gaps between them. New flower spikes fail to appear.
  • Too much sun: Yellowish or brown, sharply defined patches indicate sunburn.
  • Air that is too dry: Buds shrivel, flowers wilt faster and aerial roots appear brittle.

Humidity of around 40 to 60 per cent is usually sufficient in a living room. Do not keep the orchid permanently in a saucer of water. Evaporating water raises humidity only temporarily, while wet roots and a damp plant base can encourage fungal problems.

“Roots need air: a loose potting mix and a pot with drainage prevent water from remaining in the pot.”

Royal Horticultural Society, Orchids: growing guide

How should you water orchids without damaging the roots?

When watering orchids, the condition of the pot matters, not the day of the week. A Phalaenopsis often needs water after seven to ten days in summer. In winter, the interval frequently extends to ten to fourteen days because the plant grows more slowly in lower light. Large pots, cool rooms and dense potting mix extend the drying time.

Transparent pots make checking easier. Moist roots appear green, while dry roots are silvery or grey. Also check the weight of the pot and carefully insert a wooden stick halfway into the bark. If the bark still feels damp, wait before watering again.

Which method works best for watering orchids?

Soaking supplies the bark evenly and prevents water from simply running off the surface. Use lukewarm, preferably low-lime water. If your tap water is very hard, mix it with filtered water or use collected rainwater, provided it is clean.

  1. Take the inner pot out of the decorative planter.
  2. Check the roots and, if they are green and plump, wait a few more days.
  3. Place the inner pot in water for about ten to fifteen minutes.
  4. Allow the pot to drain completely afterwards.
  5. Empty the decorative planter and only then put the orchid back.

When watering from above, distribute the water slowly over the bark. Do not let water collect in the leaf rosette. Dry the centre of the leaves with a soft cloth or a piece of kitchen paper if drops have gathered there. Spraying is no substitute for thorough watering and increases the risk of rot when moisture remains stagnant.

If you also want to water balcony and container plants evenly, you will find additional solutions in the garden irrigation category. For orchids, controlled hand watering is generally sufficient.

Important note

Never leave orchids standing in water. Waterlogging drives air out of the potting mix and causes the roots to become soft, brown and hollow. Water again only when the roots have clearly dried out, and remove water from the decorative planter immediately.

What signs indicate incorrect watering?

Soft, dark brown roots and yellow, limp leaves usually indicate too much water. When the plant lacks water, the leaves also droop, but the roots remain dry and silvery. Always check both signs before increasing the amount of water.

Do not cut off rotten roots immediately if only individual areas are affected. First let the pot drain, then remove dead tissue with clean scissors and repot the plant in fresh, dry potting mix. Healthy roots remain firm, even when their surface appears silvery.

How can you fertilize orchids without risking salt damage?

In nature, orchids often grow on trees and receive only small amounts of dissolved nutrients. Therefore, use a special orchid fertilizer instead of highly concentrated fertilizer for vegetables or balcony plants. A low dosage protects the sensitive roots and is sufficient for new leaves, aerial roots and flower spikes.

Start fertilizing as soon as the plant is visibly growing. New leaves or root tips indicate active development. Apply a weak nutrient solution every second or third time you water. During the low-light winter months, applying fertilizer every four to six weeks is often sufficient. Heavy fertilizing cannot replace a bright location.

What does a safe fertilizing schedule look like?

  • Before fertilizing: Moisten the bark first with clean water. Dry roots are more sensitive to nutrient salts.
  • During active growth: Apply orchid fertilizer according to the manufacturer's instructions; for sensitive plants, start with a weaker concentration.
  • After repotting: Wait around three to four weeks to allow minor root injuries to heal.
  • In low light: Reduce the frequency because the plant processes fewer nutrients.
  • Regularly: Flush the potting mix with clean water every four to six weeks to wash out salt residues.

You can recognize overfertilizing by white deposits on the bark, brown root tips or dried-out leaf edges. Yellow leaves do not automatically indicate a nutrient deficiency. Check the light, water and roots first.

For supplying nutrients, the two available orchid fertilizers are suitable

and . You can find more plant care products in the Fertilizer category.

“Phalaenopsis often respond to a slight drop in nighttime temperature by producing new flower spikes.”

American Orchid Society, Phalaenopsis Culture Sheet

Which potting mix and pot are best for repotting?

Do not repot an orchid according to a fixed schedule. Check the bark and roots instead. If the potting mix breaks down, becomes compacted or stays wet for too long, the roots lack air. An unstable pot, a musty smell or many dead roots are also signs that it is time for a change.

The best time is usually after flowering, when the plant is producing new roots. Use coarse bark pieces that absorb water while leaving air pockets. Regular potting soil retains too much moisture and blocks airflow around the roots.

How to repot an orchid step by step

  1. Water the plant lightly the day before. This makes flexible roots easier to loosen from the old pot.
  2. Carefully remove the orchid and use your fingers to remove old pieces of bark.
  3. Rinse the roots with lukewarm water if necessary.
  4. Cut away soft, hollow or completely brown roots with clean, sharp scissors.
  5. Place the plant in a pot only slightly larger than the previous one, with drainage holes.
  6. Fill fresh potting mix loosely around the roots. Do not press the bark down firmly.

A transparent inner pot makes it easier to check the roots later. The pot should not be too large, as excess potting mix stays wet for a long time. A decorative outer pot keeps the plant stable, but must not collect water.

For changing the potting mix,

, a special orchid potting mix is ideal. Additional garden and plant accessories will help you care for your orchids and repot them safely.

Additional advice

Place the freshly repotted orchid in a bright spot for two to three days, but keep it out of direct sunlight. Water sparingly at first and do not fertilize for several weeks. This allows the plant to produce new roots instead of pushing nutrients into injured cut surfaces.

How do you encourage new blooms after the dormant period?

After flowering, your orchid does not need drastic treatment. First remove any fallen flowers and inspect the flower spike. A completely brown, dry spike will not produce any more new buds. Cut it off close to the base with disinfected scissors.

A green spike may continue flowering. Trim it about one to two centimetres above a strong node, the small thickened point on the spike. The plant may produce a side branch there. Some Phalaenopsis benefit from this, while others prefer to develop new flowers on a fresh spike growing from the base.

What conditions encourage a new bloom?

Light remains the most important factor. After flowering, move the orchid back to its brightest suitable location. Continue watering as needed and only fertilise when new leaves or roots are growing.

A difference between warm daytime and slightly cooler night-time temperatures can encourage flower formation. Lower the temperature by about three to five degrees for a few weeks, but never below 16 degrees. Avoid draughts, cold window panes and sudden changes of location.

Also check the plant for scale insects, mealybugs and thrips. Isolate affected orchids immediately. Carefully wipe away individual pests and check the undersides of the leaves, the leaf axils and the new root tips.

Orchid care throughout the year

  • Spring: Slowly increase watering as more light reaches the plant. Start applying a weak fertiliser when new roots begin to grow.
  • Summer: Protect the leaves from intense midday sun and check the growing medium more frequently. Ventilate the room without exposing the orchid to cold draughts.
  • Autumn: Reduce fertilising as light levels decrease. A slight drop in temperature at night can encourage new flower spikes.
  • Winter: Keep the plant in a bright spot and away from radiators. Extend the intervals between watering and remove any water from the outer pot.

Do not just observe the flowers, but also the roots, leaves and growing medium. A vigorous orchid produces new root tips, firm leaves and stands securely in its pot. Regular checks allow you to adapt its care to the plant's actual needs.

Pro tip

Keep a short care calendar for each orchid. Record watering days, fertilising, changes of location and new roots. After a few weeks, you will recognise your plant's individual rhythm and will no longer water by guesswork or according to a rigid weekly schedule.

This keeps orchid care simple: place it in a bright spot, water only when the bark is dry, allow excess water to drain away, fertilise sparingly and repot in good time. These simple steps provide the foundation for healthy roots and recurring blooms for many months.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I water my orchid?
A Phalaenopsis usually needs water only after seven to ten days, and often less frequently in winter. Check the roots and growing medium instead of watering according to a calendar. Silver-coloured roots and an almost dry pot indicate that watering is needed. Briefly soak the inner pot and let it drain completely.
What location is best for orchids?
A bright spot near an east- or west-facing window is suitable for most Phalaenopsis orchids. At a south-facing window, a sheer curtain protects the leaves from scorching. Keep the plant away from radiators, air conditioning units and cold draughts. Daytime temperatures of around 18 to 24 degrees encourage growth and flowering.
How do I fertilise an orchid correctly?
Use a special orchid fertiliser and follow the manufacturer's dosage instructions; use a weaker solution if the roots are sensitive. Apply fertiliser only to already moist growing medium and regularly flush the bark with clear water. During active growth, fertilising every second or third watering is usually sufficient.
When does an orchid need repotting?
Repot the orchid when the bark breaks down, water remains in the pot or many roots become soft and brown. Use coarse orchid growing medium and a pot with drainage holes. Choose a pot only slightly larger than the current one. Leave healthy green or firm silvery roots on the plant.
How can I get my orchid to bloom again?
Place the orchid in a bright spot, water as needed and apply fertiliser sparingly during growth. After flowering, cut a completely brown spike off at the base. A green spike can be trimmed above a strong node. A slight drop in temperature at night can encourage new buds.
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